DRAGOLANDIA: Hombre varado
Sigo aquí. No sé cuándo ni adónde me iré. ¿A Siem Reap, a Pnom Penh, a Saigón, a Bangkok para saltar desde allí a las Célebes o a Bali?
Infinito placer de hacer camino al andar, de no tener planes, de no estar sujeto a calendario, ni horario, ni rumbo alguno.
Es como volver a la juventud.
Me siento como un barco pirata con la quilla hincada en tierra. Hombres varados llamó Torrente Malvido a su primera y mejor novela. Su punto de partida (o de arribada) fue el viaje que hicimos juntos en la primavera de 1957 a dos islas de las Baleares que aún no habían sido devastadas por la Horda del turismo.
Él se quedó en Ibiza y se metió en mil líos. Yo regresé a Madrid e hice lo mismo.
Vita pericolosa.
Vientián, en 1967, era un paraíso elevado al cubo. Llegué a él o a ella, no sé cómo decirlo, porque es ciudad de travestis, después de sobrevivir durante un par de semanas, al hilo del Mekong, a una rigurosa dieta de arroz blanco con pinchos de saltamontes.
Había entonces guerras por todas partes: la de la Cía, la de los norteamericanos, la del tío Ho, la del vietcong, la de los vietnamitas del sur, la del Patet Laos, la de las guerrillas étnicas, la de los chinos, las de los mercenarios…
En Vientián reinaba la calma. Caí de hinojos. Fue un flechazo. Había pocos habitantes, casi ningún coche, muchas chicas, muchas putas, muchas mataharis, seiscientos fumaderos de opio (ya lo dije), pan francés, filetes de dos dedos de grosor con patatas fritas como Dios manda, vinos de Burdeos y de Riesling, espías, cazadores, vividores, colonos, personajes de novela, comunistas, fascistas, algún que otro nazi, números atrasados de Le Monde, películas de la nouvelle vague, traficantes de drogas, marihuana baratísima, ningún hippy (excepto yo), ningún turista, los mangos más dulces de Asia, calor, elefantes, pitones y muchos corresponsales de prensa supuestamente destacados en Saigón.
Todo era posible.
Una mañana vi un cachorro de tigre puesto a la venta entre las coles y espinacas del mercado matinal. No lo compré.
Una noche de opio y rosas, al arrimo de la plaza de Namphu, pegó la hebra conmigo un individuo disfrazado de Lee Marvin que parecía salido de una película de Huston o de Peckhimpah y me propuso llevar un kilo de heroína a Nueva York. Me darían, dijo, setenta y cinco mil dólares, un fortunón para la época, y luego me pegarían un tiro y mi cadáver sería pasto de las pirañas del Hudson. No acepté.
Volví a Vientián en el 68. Seguía siendo un paraíso, pero sólo al cuadrado. De lo dicho no quedaba casi nada. Sólo el aroma francés. La vita pericolosa había terminado. Los comunistas estaban en el poder y los aventureros en la reserva. El puritanismo hacía de las suyas. No vi tigres en el mercado. Aún se comía bien, el grosor de los filetes no había disminuido y los mangos eran igual de dulces, pero nadie me propuso nada.
Vientián es ahora un paraíso a secas. Va a menos, pero mantiene el tipo. Ya hay coches, aunque pocos, y el puritanismo se bate en lenta retirada.
Ciudad de travestis, dije. Son una maravilla. Hay que ser muy maricón, sostiene un amigo de acrisolada heterosexualidad, para que no te gusten.
Estoy de acuerdo.
No sé cuándo me iré de Vientián. Sospecho que será pronto. Cometí ese error en el 68 y lo reiteré en el 98. El hombre es el único animal que tropieza tres veces en la misma piedra.
[...] DRAGOLANDIA: Hombre varado [...]
Fernando, ¿por qué no te dedicas a escribir guías turísticas? Las pagan bien.
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